PlanetChristmas Builds a Train

I used some 3” PVC parts that I got from Home Depot and the light fixture is also from Home Depot.

This is the finished cross board with the 2 lights attached to it they are resting in a cut out of the wood and are screwed into the wood.  You are looking at the wiring and the box that has the electrical board inside; the white wires are wired together and go inside to one connection on the board. Each of the  black wires has their own slots to connect to and then there is the two incoming electrical lines that also has its own connection on the board, I just used SPT1 electrical wire and a vampire plug with a six foot lead.

This is the completed Crossing sign except for the painting and the lettering. It is about seven feet tall and has a ½” x12 inches long bolt placed through the 2x2 so I can step on it to drive it into the ground. The box is water proof so nothing get’s into the electrical connections. And yes I know that the lights are upside down they are that way till I get some strapping wire and the paint job is completed.

I spent a long time going over this in my head do I want to commit myself to a project this big but once I got into it I was sooooo glad I did. I spent a lot of time deciding and talking to people who have built a train before, picking their brains for ideas and advice.

I want to take the time to Thank Walter, Bryce, Dan, Scott and anyone else that sent me an email or we talked on the phone for your help I could not have done it without ALL of you help.

Let me also say to everyone, this is not the only way to build a train, it was what was comfortable for me and I know that there are many more and different ways to doing it. It is just a way to show you how you can do it if you want to. 

I spent many weeks looking around the internet for parts after talking to many previous train builders, and came up with 2 ways to do it, I decided to go the way of the big wheels setup to start with, first was cost and second later on I can upgrade to a more expensive motor.

These are the drive wheel caps that come off the motor and gearbox fro hot wheels, these are all new motors. 

This is the Hot Wheels generic wire harness an AWG-14 in the end it will be modified to meet my needs.

Some additional parts that I plan on using for the steam tube and the front light and the smoke stack. 

This is the Hot Wheels motor and gearbox it is the most standard of the all.

This time the additional train parts buy themselves.

As you can see there is a beginning frame, I’m doing this in wood to make the parts fit before my neighbor gets to it and makes it out of metal for me. As you can see the parts are ready to be mounted. 

Held together buy clamps and the first motor mounted, it’s beginning to take shape!

Took the frame away to be able to work on the wheels and set some other parts as needed.

The Frame turned over to work on the lazy-susans for the wheel casters; this is what will guide my train around the track instead of a center rail.

The caster setup this was the toughest part so far on the train, this is where everything has to work perfectly and heights must be exact, with a little room for turning. 

A photo of the train frame set on the test track to see if things work as they were envisioned and built. 

Again more checking and testing to make sure all clearances are tolerable. 

Again you see what has to be the hardest area to this point is making sure everything works as it should.

Just enough room for the 2 motors to be connected buy wires and still keep the train only so wide. 

The board divider and wiring has begun! Since at the point I was at I decided to make the board taller than I might need till I found the battery that would suit my needs and fit into the space that I had for it. 

The back end of the engine, since I probably have to gain access to the motors and gears I decided to put the area where the train engineers run the train on a piano hinge and used a hook to fasten it closed. The 2 motors are wrapped in bubble wrap to keep out anything, dust or dirt wise out of them.

As you can see the back end is starting to shape up, now all I have to do is find the battery, you would think in a state such as Florida where there are plenty of boats it would be easy to find a reasonably priced deep cycle battery. Well my quest continues this weekend!

Well Here I go again I have finally landed my battery, it is not the one I really wanted, could not find that one but just the same I found a suitable replacement for the time being. This is now going to add the weight that is needed for the drive wheels.

Again most of the weight is on the rear wheels and it also keeps the guide wheels inside the track.

This is the start of the battery cover and the front main part of the engine. In building this cover I used angel irons and 3/8 inch plywood for strength.

The battery cover completed, again I have also used a piano hinge to run the full length of the cover so I can access the battery for a change out or a charge at night.

A back side view of the battery cover compartment.

A front view of the battery compartment minus the lid.

Battery area with the lid in place.

I have used a 4 inch dryer vent pipe and a 3 inch PVC screw in pipe with the screw in cap for the front of the engine to make the housing for the train light, later on .I used metal strapping and some circular cut rounds to keep the shape of the piping and allow me to fasten the pipe to the box.

I have now added a front porch to the engine this will house some additional lights and it is the platform to which I will make the plow from.

Now if you look closely at the tubing you can just see some extra pieces of wood piled on the left and right of the tube this is for a finishing touch.

Your looking at my weekend’s work so far you can now tell when these photos were taken buys the date on the side of the photo.

I have added a cover with poles to the back side of the engineer’s platform, this will swing out of the way if needed all I have to do is remove 4 screws and unhinge the side hinge for access to the motors and gear boxes for any repairs are needed in the future.

Just another view of the engine, the top is also 3/8 inch plywood along with 1/4 inch PVC piping all of which I have just used on other projects. Trying to use these items up and get them out of the corners of the garage.

A closer view of the rear cab if you look closely you see a separation between the battery box and the main wall this allows access to the battery and will be tightened up later on.

I spent a lot of time this weekend doing the small things that are needed to make this a better looking train engine, all the details that make it look finished and will be added after the painting is completed. These are 4 ladders and 2 sets of piping that run down the length of the steam tube. I also spent a lot of time working on the wiring for the battery, lights and switches that will run the train. Next weekend is for the motors and gearboxes they have to be finished and then it is testing time to make sure it runs as I want it to, then the following week comes painting time in red, green, white, and gold.

This is the way I’m going to hook up the cars to each other, the only difference is that the final lock will have a closing device on it so they do not let go of each other while working.

The 2 images are to illustrate the closing hooks that I’m using on the cab and battery compartments to keep them secure and tight while running.

This is the power distribution bar it will be the central hook up area for the entire train.

This is the cab area which is on a hinge; this is prior to installing any wiring.

This is the battery compartment prior to installing any wiring.

The wiring of the 2 motors.

In this photo you see the wiring going to the cab light from the underside of the cab, notice that things are harnessed down to make sure nothing gets in the way of opening and closing.

The wires pass underneath the motors and through a hole in the firewall.

As you can see the light works, since I will have items in the cab and some decorations there is no need to completely hide the light. This is like a 3 amp fuse but it is a light all I did was use green electrical tape and tape the wires to the bulb since I’m going to paint the cab green the tape and paint will match.

I’m running wires to the nose of the engine for lights or a strobe light.

The wiring comes out here to wait for what I find in the future.

I’ve started pulling the wires, these are the main wires that come off the motors and will be wired directly to the battery as you can see there is going to be a SPST switch just for the motors.

I have added a switch board to the back firewall this is in a space between the firewall and the battery the battery rests right up against the 2 angle irons giving me plenty of room for all my wiring. The switch on the right is for the motors and the other SPST switch is for turning on the power for the power bar and all the lights.